Small amounts of sod can usually be purchases at a local garden center also. just make sure that it is relatively fresh. And don't forget, "Green side up"!

Even though Virginia creeper is native to much of the eastern united states, it can be a problem in unwanted areas. Effective removal is simple, and involves a very low rate of chemical use. Cut back any stems at ground level. Then, on the fresh cuts apply an herbicide such as trimec or triclopyr in concentrate form with a foam paint brush. Be sure to use rubber gloves. You could also purchase brush and stump killer that comes with it's own applicator. This will kill the existing plants, but you may still get new plants that germinate from seed. These should pull easily when young. To verify that you have Virginia creeper, follow this link http://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/pg_paqu2.pdf

Since broadleaves like violets and clover have different chemistry than grasses, they can fairly easily be controlled with selective broadleaf herbicides containing trimec or similar ingredients. These combinations work better than herbicides that only have one ingredient (like 2,4-D). Some of the newer versions contain carfentrazone or sulfrentrazone, which are even more effective. Most can be applied as a granular or liquid. You can spray anytime weeds are actively growing, but best control is in the fall. Do not spray in mid summer, or anytime the grass is under drought stress.

Clover is usually fairly easy to control with a broad leaf weed killer. Violets are a tougher problem. If there are just a few, hand digging can be an effective control measure. For a bigger infestation a weed killer with triclophyr in it is recommended in the Iowa University Extension publication Horticulture and Home Pest News at this location http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/2008/6-4/violetsinlawn.html Multiple applications will be needed. As always, read and follow the label.

One of the reasons you grow ornamental grasses is for the wonderful way they look. During winter, the look of the grasses add to the winter landscape. While it probably wouldn't hurt the grass to trim in the fall, you would lose that winter interest that the grasses bring to your yard. By leaving the growth on it for the winter, you also give it more protection from our winter contitions. The best time to trim is in the spring is right before it starts to put on new growth. This year everything took of so quickly with the warm temperatures, so trim it as soon as you get a chance. The maiden grasses like to be trimmed back to around 6-8 inches. Most people cut their grasses back in the spring.

August 15 to September 30 is the best time to establish new seeding. There will be less competition from weeds then. The air temperature is declining so new grass plants survive more easily, the soil temperature is still high enough to get good germination. Get a soil test if possible and apply the recommended amount of fertilizer.

If the area is sunny, a mixture of 3 or 4 types of blue grasses work best. In partial shade use half Kentucky bluegrass and half fine Fescue. In heavy shade use fine leaf fescue. Buy quality seed avoiding seed that has a high percentage of perennial rye, weed seed, or inert material. Till the area just as you did when it was a vegetable garden. Divide the seed in half and sow one half in each direction. Rake it in and roll the area lightly to get good seed to soil contact.

Apply a light (one straw thick) layer of straw for mulch. Keep the seedbed continuously moist while the grass is germinating. This means sprinkling it daily. Once the grass starts to grow water more infrequently but deeper. Start mowing when the grass is about 3 or 3 1/2 inches high only remove about 1/3 of the grass blade at a time Google "Establishing a lawn from seed PM 1072" for an excellent reference.

You have heard correctly, we are blessed in Iowa with very fertile soil. This soil that we take for granted was built over thousands of years by decomposing prairie plants. Decomposition of the tops yes, but also their extensive root systems. The USDA says that 20 percent of the best cropland in the US is in Iowa. We need to take better care of it. You who live and garden in cities can help. If you are gardening or landscaping a slope consider using terraces. Mulching can help prevent erosion by protecting the soil from the relentless hammering of rain drops. Filter strips, strips of grass or other vegetation can be used to slow soil erosion. Just 150 years ago Iowa topsoil averaged 14 to 16 inches. Now it is less than half that or around six to eight inches

What grows well here? Couple a kind climate with the top soil left by the prairie plants and you can grow all manner of horticultural and agricultural things. In my garden there are onions, potatoes, cole crops, peas, green beans, tomatoes and sweet corn. Corn is still king in Iowa, just look around you in the summer time, it's inescapable! And corn is a grass, a grass that has supplanted the prairie grasses the settlers found here.

We all should be in awe of what we were given here in Iowa and work to preserve it.

Go to https://store.extension.iastate.edu/ and search for PM 870B Container Vegetable Gardening. It's a free PDF and an excellent publication that adds to what Christopher has told you. I think you will find it quite useful.

Allison, I have found that several plant catalogs have actually developed miniature cultivars of plants just for the purpose of patio gardening. I just purchased and planted "Top Hat" blueberries from Burpee to grow on my deck. The plants had great instructions for planting and care included in the package. I am awaiting the arrival of the "Patio Princess" tomato plants from Burpee, also. How fun is this to grow fruits and vegetables in small spaces?????

Wow, thanks guys! It seems like the ISU Extension website has a lot of good resources. I'm hopeful I can get some herbs and veggies out of my tiny space!

Caron,
The only problem I foresee with planting hostas under a pine tree is that pine trees naturally deposit acid into the earth as a self-protective mechanism to prevent other plants from competing with them for nutrients. So, keep an eye on them, if you have already planted them. If you have not, you might want to get a soil sample done and amend the soil to help your hostas do well.

When you plant the hostas, make sure to visualize them as mature plants, so space the plants appropriately. I believe hosta may take upto 7 years before they attain full size. It's not unusual to see beds in which the plants are too close together